Not all bodies are equal and not all patterns have been designed to fit our figures. Sometimes you will have to resize the pattern that you have followed religiously. How do you do that? Simply resize it! It isn’t as hard or as challenging as it sounds!
- A cutting service (preferably with a one inch grid)
- French curve
- Pattern paper (tracing paper will do)
- Pens for marking
The first thing you should do is take the measurements from the person you are making the item for. They are likely to have quirks in their body shape that are not going to be catered for in the standard pattern so take down all the numbers that you can. This is your first step. Now examine the pattern in front of you. Apply the measurements that you have just taken marking areas where you need further allowances and areas where you need to make the lines smaller.
Double and triple check your markings if this is the first time you have resized a pattern. If it helps, cut up the pattern into distinct sections so that you don’t get confused. For example, sleeves and necklines can be treated separately and then brought together in the final making.
A short-waisted figure is normally about 15 inches from the nape of your neck to your waistline. Take your measurements and see if the following rules are going to apply to you. To correct this problem all you have to do is draw a line, about two inches above the pattern’s prescribed waistline. The line should go all the way across the pattern to act as a firm guide for you.
If you are making a top you can stop here and ct out the pattern. Those making dresses should continue to fold the two inches of extra pattern paper to meet that line. This will mean that you can continue with the rest of the pattern, with the short-waisted adaptation in tact.
If you are making a basic two-piece skirt – with two pieces of fabric sewn together – you will have the easiest job! All you have to do is add whatever you need to the side seam and your done. Add the seams with French curves to give a flattering shape to the overall piece.